1Duomo di Napoli (Cattedrale di San Gennaro) Sight
The saint's blood miracle happens here twice a year; the crypt beneath is quiet and worth the few extra minutes.
Three days in Naples splits cleanly into three stories: the tangled old city (the Duomo, the veiled Christ of Cappella Sansevero, Da Michele's margherita, the tunnels of Napoli Sotterranea), a full day at Pompeii with the Vesuvius crater rim above it, and a last day tracing the bay from Castel dell'Ovo to a Posillipo sunset. Everything runs on foot and one Circumvesuviana train. Dinner is pizza where it was invented, twice.
The saint's blood miracle happens here twice a year; the crypt beneath is quiet and worth the few extra minutes.
The Veiled Christ's marble 'veil' looks impossibly soft, arrive right at opening to beat the tour groups.
Naples' most famous pizzeria still serves only two kinds, margherita and marinara, cooked in a wood oven since 1870.
The dead-straight street splits the old Greek grid in two, duck into San Gregorio Armeno for the presepe workshops along the way.
Greek-Roman aqueduct tunnels 40m under the city, still lit by candle for the final stretch, bring a light jacket, it's cool down there.
Join the evening stroll down Naples' grand shopping street to the neoclassical piazza, best as the streetlights come on.
A neighborhood favorite for genuine Neapolitan home cooking, go for the genovese or the fried starters.
Take the Circumvesuviana from Napoli Garibaldi to Pompei Scavi–Villa dei Misteri, about 35 minutes.
Walk the Forum, the Villa dei Misteri frescoes, and the plaster casts, the Forum Baths' stucco ceiling is a highlight often missed.
A quick tavola calda near the Porta Marina entrance, keep it simple, you're heading up a volcano next.
A bus from Pompeii runs to the car park; the crater trail is a steady 30-minute climb with the whole bay opening up behind you at the top.
Bus back down to Pompei/Ercolano station, then Circumvesuviana back to Napoli Garibaldi.
Credited with inventing the margherita pizza for Queen Margherita in 1889, a fitting close to a volcano day.
Naples' oldest castle sits on a tiny islet; walk the ramparts for the first proper view of the bay and Vesuvius across the water.
The traffic-free seafront promenade. Neapolitans jog, fish, and sit on the rocks here every morning.
Take the Montesanto funicular up to Vomero, then this former monastery's terrace gives the single best panoramic view over the whole city and bay.
Naples' oldest gelateria, since 1930, the lemon (limone) is made with Sorrento citrus.
Follow Via Posillipo to the Parco Vergiliano viewpoint, the coastline and Capri catch the last light from here.
A historic seafood spot right on Borgo Marinari's harbour, tables facing the castle and the water, a fitting last dinner.
Wood ovens, blistered crusts, and menus of two items. This is the city that invented it and still argues about it daily.
Naples' slow-cooked onion-and-beef pasta, nothing to do with Genoa and everything to do with Sunday lunch culture.
Sorrento citrus, churned in a shop that has been at it since 1930.
The shell-shaped, ricotta-filled pastry Naples eats warm for breakfast. The plan does not pin one down; ask Robin to add a pasticceria stop and it will.
No, and in Naples you truly do not want one. The whole plan is on foot, plus the Circumvesuviana train for Pompeii and a funicular ride up to San Martino.
Cappella Sansevero's timed tickets, first. Pompeii is easier on the day but pre-booking skips the ticket line, and Vesuvius crater access is a timed ticket too in high season; check current entry rules before you fly.
Treat it like any big southern European city: keep your phone off the street side of your hand, use normal caution at night, and you will mostly experience the warmth, not the grit. The old city is busy and watched until late.
Capodichino is barely 6 km out. The Alibus shuttle runs to the station and the port in about 30 minutes; a taxi to the old city is a flat-rate ride worth taking with luggage.
For the old city, Pompeii and the bay, yes. What it leaves out is a lot: Herculaneum, the National Archaeological Museum where Pompeii's treasures actually live, and the islands. A fourth day fixes the first two.
Give the old city two half days: Sansevero and the Duomo one morning, Napoli Sotterranea and Spaccanapoli another. The lanes reward a second pass at a different hour.
The National Archaeological Museum holds the mosaics and frescoes taken from Pompeii and Herculaneum. Seeing it after walking the ruins is the right order, and Herculaneum itself is a shorter, denser sister site if you want both.
Ferries from Borgo Marinari's harbour put Capri, Ischia and Procida within day-trip reach. Procida is the quiet, painterly choice; Capri the famous one.
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