1Gyeongbokgung Palace Sight
Arrive before the 10am changing-of-the-guard ceremony at Gwanghwamun gate for the best view.
Three days of eating Seoul properly: bindaetteok sizzling at Gwangjang's stalls, a build-your-own dosirak bought with brass coins at Tongin Market, an afternoon making kimchi with your own hands, and dinners at the institutions, Woo Lae Oak's Pyongyang naengmyeon, Hadongkwan's century-old ox-bone broth, a farewell samgyetang at Tosokchon. The famous palaces appear only as the scenery you walk off lunch in. This plan is about the tables, stalls and soup counters Seoul actually queues for.
Arrive before the 10am changing-of-the-guard ceremony at Gwanghwamun gate for the best view.
Wander the sloped lanes of Ihwa-dong-style hanok roofs; the view from the top of Gahoe-dong 31 alley is the postcard shot.
Seoul's oldest market, go straight for bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes) and mayak gimbap at the food alley stalls.
Browse tea houses and traditional craft shops along Insadong-gil; Ssamziegil's spiral courtyard is worth the detour.
The 500-year-old white pine in the courtyard and evening chanting make this working temple a calm counterpoint to the market crowds.
Order the kalguksu (knife-cut noodle soup), locals queue for it despite the plain decor.
Climb the wooded trail from Namsangol Hanok Village rather than the cable car, the third switchback opens onto the first city view.
On a clear day you can see as far as the mountains ringing the city, go up before the midday haze.
Buy old brass coins (yeopjeon) at the entrance and trade them for a build-your-own dosirak (lunch box) among the market stalls, a Seoul local-life tradition.
A hands-on class where you make and take home your own kimchi, the closest you'll get to a Korean grandmother's kitchen.
As stalls light up for the evening, graze the skewer and hotteok carts along the main pedestrian strip, pure Seoul street-food ritual.
Try the Pyongyang-style naengmyeon this 70-year-old restaurant is famous for, order it before the bulgogi, as locals do.
Book the timed guided-only entry to the Secret Garden, its 300-year-old pond pavilion is far less crowded than the main palace.
Century-old seolleongtang (ox bone soup) house, season it yourself with salt and scallions at the table, as regulars do.
Narrower and quieter than Bukchon, its century-old hanoks now hold small design shops, duck down the unnamed alleys off the main lane.
Walk the restored stream from Gwanghwamun toward Dongdaemun, the stepping stones near Supyo Bridge are a favourite local shortcut, not a tourist trick.
A farewell bowl of ginseng chicken soup at the place said to have served it to a former president, arrive right at opening to skip the queue.
Mung-bean pancakes fried in sizzling oil and the little 'narcotic' seaweed rolls you cannot stop eating, stood or stooled among locals.
Cold buckwheat noodles in an austere, icy broth, the connoisseur's bowl. Order it before the bulgogi, as the regulars do.
Milky ox-bone soup simmered for hours; you season it yourself at the table with salt and scallions.
A whole young chicken stuffed with rice and ginseng, simmered to a restorative farewell soup.
No. Every stop on this plan sits on the metro or within a walk of it, and the one climb (Namsan) is the point of the morning. A car in central Seoul buys you nothing but parking.
Two things: Changdeokgung's Secret Garden is timed, guided entry with capped numbers, and the kimchi-making class takes a limited group. Book both before you fly. The restaurants on this plan take walk-ins; queues move fast.
Less than you would think. Market meals and street stalls are a few dollars a round, and even the storied soup houses are everyday-priced; the class is the one splurge. Robin can rebalance the plan around your budget in the app.
The AREX express train runs Incheon to Seoul Station in about 45 minutes; from there it is one metro hop or a short taxi to Jongno.
Enough for the canon: the two great markets, the noodle and soup institutions, real Korean barbecue culture. What a longer trip adds is the neighborhood layer, Mangwon's market lanes and Euljiro's charcoal-grill alleys, which is its own trip: see the like-a-local itinerary.
Give the Secret Garden its full morning, keep Hadongkwan, and let Ikseon-dong run into the evening instead of racing the stream walk before dinner.
A morning at Mangwon Market where the city actually shops, then the Hangang riverside to walk it off. Robin plans it in the app with your pace.
Ask Robin to build a charcoal-grill evening around your tastes, galbi or samgyeopsal, with a market lunch to keep the appetite honest. It is the one great ritual this plan leaves room for.
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