1Edinburgh Castle Sight
Arrive at opening to beat coach tours; the Half-Moon Battery gives the first real skyline view of the city.
Three days in Edinburgh, on foot the whole way: the Castle and the Royal Mile with an underground detour into Mary King's Close on day one, an honest hike up Arthur's Seat and an evening whisky tasting on day two, and the Georgian New Town, Dean Village and Calton Hill at golden hour to say goodbye. Lunch is a hog-roast roll from Oink; dinner runs from Dishoom's Bombay café to haggis done properly at a Stockbridge gastropub.
Arrive at opening to beat coach tours; the Half-Moon Battery gives the first real skyline view of the city.
Stroll from Castlehill down through Lawnmarket and High Street, closes, wynds and street performers, ending near St Giles' Cathedral.
Hog-roast rolls served from the cart on Victoria Street, the quick, unfussy local classic before the afternoon.
Descend into the sealed 17th-century closes beneath the Royal Mile, the guided walk is the only way in and worth it.
The curved, colourful street that inspired Diagon Alley, wander down into Grassmarket with the Castle looming above.
Bombay café-style dinner in a grand Georgian-era building on St Andrew Square, book ahead, it doesn't take walk-in couples easily.
Climb via Radical Road or the Dry Dam path, the summit at 251m gives the best panoramic view in the city, arrive early for clear light.
Cool down beside St Margaret's Loch at the foot of the crags, with ruined St Anthony's Chapel above, a quiet close to the climb.
Easy sit-down lunch near the Old Town after the hike, reliable Italian classics, a break from Scottish fare.
The Grand Gallery's glass-roofed hall alone is worth the visit; the Scotland Galleries trace the whisky and clan history that shaped the city.
A scoop of hand-churned gelato on Grassmarket, small, local, and unlike the chain ice cream on the Mile.
A guided tasting through Scotland's whisky regions just below the Castle esplanade, the barrel-ride intro is touristy but the tasting flight is genuinely well-curated.
A restored townhouse on Robert Adam's finest square, furnished exactly as a genteel 1790s Edinburgh family would have lived.
Walk Heriot Row and Moray Place for the sweep of Georgian crescents, then drop down to Dean Village along the Water of Leith.
The old milling hamlet on the Water of Leith. Well Court's turrets reflect in the water, one of the city's quietest corners.
A gastropub co-founded by Tom Kitchin doing elevated Scottish comfort food, haggis, neeps and tatties done properly.
Climb past the National Monument and Nelson Monument as the light turns, the classic postcard view over the whole city and Firth of Forth.
Edinburgh's favorite quick lunch: slow-roasted pork, crackling if you say yes, eaten standing on the prettiest curve of street in the city.
The national dish, done seriously rather than as a dare, peppery and rich with whisky sauce.
Four drams, four regions, someone who can explain why Islay tastes like a bonfire at sea.
A small counter making its own flavors daily under the Castle rock.
No. Everything on this plan is on foot, including Arthur's Seat; a car in the Old Town is somewhere between useless and a punishment.
Dishoom does not take walk-in bookings for small groups at peak times, so plan that dinner; the Castle and Mary King's Close both sell timed tickets worth securing. The whisky tasting books out on weekends.
It is a proper hill, not a mountain: about 250 meters of climb, steep in stretches, 2 to 2.5 hours round trip at holiday pace. Trainers are fine in dry weather; the summit wind is always colder than the city.
The tram runs from the terminal to Princes Street in about 35 minutes and drops you between the Old and New Towns.
For the Old Town, the hill and the Georgian city, yes. It leaves out Leith and the Royal Yacht Britannia, and any day trip: Rosslyn Chapel or the East Lothian coast are the classic fourth-day picks.
Split day 3 in two: the New Town and Dean Village get a full day with long stops, and Calton Hill moves to your true last evening, where it belongs.
Walk or bus down to the Shore, tour the Royal Yacht Britannia, and stay for dinner in Leith's harbour-side restaurants, the city's best food neighborhood.
Rosslyn Chapel's carved interior is 40 minutes away; North Berwick's beach, harbour and seabird center make the other classic day out. Either returns you by dinner.
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