1Poilâne Eat
Pick up a miche and a pain au chocolat here, the century-old wood-fired oven still bakes the same sourdough loaf that made it famous.
This is Paris measured in lawns, chairs and picnic benches instead of museum queues: the Luxembourg's green chairs with a Poilâne loaf, a full day cycling the Bois de Boulogne, and a last day from the cliffs of Buttes-Chaumont along the Coulée Verte to the Jardin des Plantes. In early June everything is in leaf and bloom, and not one minute of the plan stands in line.
Pick up a miche and a pain au chocolat here, the century-old wood-fired oven still bakes the same sourdough loaf that made it famous.
Eat your Poilâne haul in the green metal chairs by the octagonal pond, then wander the orchard and Medici Fountain corner.
A genuine 1906 art-nouveau bouillon serving classic French bistro plates, the tiled dining room is worth lingering in.
Join Parisians doing their evening stroll along the quais, this is where the passeggiata happens after dinner.
Rent bikes here to cover the Bois's scale properly, it's far bigger than it looks on a map.
Cycle the shaded paths to the lake, circle it, and pause at Pré Catelan's gardens along the way.
This lakeside guinguette is where Parisians actually spend Bois afternoons, tapas-style plates and a dance-floor vibe under the trees.
The rose garden peaks in early June, over 1,000 varieties, and far quieter than the Bois's main lawns.
Return east and settle on the terrace here as the light turns gold over the Eiffel Tower across the river.
A Trocadéro institution since 1927, sit for a proper dinner with a view toward the tower's evening sparkle.
Climb to the Temple de la Sybille for the best rooftop view in northeast Paris, then walk down past the waterfall grotto.
The city's benchmark glacier on Île Saint-Louis, try the salted caramel or a seasonal fruit sorbet.
Walk this elevated garden path built on an old rail viaduct, the greenery-over-rooftops view is Paris's answer to the High Line.
A last unhurried wander through the botanical garden's alpine and rose sections before the day winds down.
Close the trip at this storied Montparnasse brasserie, once the haunt of Hemingway, a fitting last sit-down dinner.
The most famous sourdough in France, bought whole and eaten on garden chairs with whatever cheese you carried.
Rosa Bonheur does the old riverside-dancehall tradition inside the Bois: casual plates, spritzes, grass underfoot.
The Île Saint-Louis institution, best eaten walking toward the next green space.
A ripe cheese, June strawberries and a saucisson from a street market. Ask Robin to point you to the right market morning near your hotel.
Depends on the park. Buttes-Chaumont and the Bois are open-lawn territory; the Luxembourg keeps most lawns off-limits but compensates with its famous movable chairs, and a bottle of wine with your picnic raises no eyebrows anywhere.
Rent at Porte Maillot as the plan does, or grab Vélib' shared bikes: the Bois de Boulogne's lanes are flat, shaded and car-light. Hand the bike back before Trocadéro and finish on foot.
Almost none: these are public parks. The Bagatelle garden charges a few euros, and the Jardin des Plantes' greenhouses and menagerie are optional paid extras inside a free garden.
No, and that is its charm. The first-visit Paris page owns the Louvre, the islands and the Eiffel Tower; this one assumes you have done that trip, or simply do not need it. Trocadéro's gardens are as close as it comes to the postcards.
Swap the bike day for the covered passages and the greenhouse of the Jardin des Plantes, and give Bagatelle's roses the next dry morning. Ask Robin on the day and it will reshuffle around the forecast.
Buttes-Chaumont deserves a whole morning of cliff paths and the temple lookout; move the Coulée Verte and Jardin des Plantes to their own afternoon with time in the alpine garden.
The other great wood, on the other side of the city: rowboats on Lac Daumesnil, the château's walls, and the Parc Floral's June concerts.
The train-and-shuttle day trip to Monet's garden is the natural graduation of this trip: the lily pond in June is the reason the paintings exist.
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