1Explore Le Marais Walk
Wander the narrow lanes and courtyards of the Marais, this is where old Paris and its boutiques overlap best.
This is Paris planned from the table outward: lunch grazed through the stalls of the Marché des Enfants Rouges, the city's oldest covered market; a bakery haul from Du Pain et des Idées eaten on the Canal Saint-Martin's banks; oysters and barrel wine standing at Le Baron Rouge; dinners at a galette house, an 1896 bouillon and the Bistrot Paul Bert. The famous sights are all here too, but they happen between meals, not instead of them.
Wander the narrow lanes and courtyards of the Marais, this is where old Paris and its boutiques overlap best.
Paris's oldest covered market (since 1615), graze the food stalls for a market-style lunch among locals.
Climb to the upper chapel for the stained-glass walls that seem to dissolve into color, arrive early to beat tour groups.
A quiet residential island with no major sight but the best late-afternoon light on the Seine, end at the tip's small park facing Notre-Dame.
Buckwheat galettes and cider done properly, a Breton specialty adopted whole-heartedly by Paris, and genuinely beloved locally.
Go up early before the queues build, the second-floor view is the sweet spot, worth the wait for it.
Pick up the famed escargot pistache-chocolat and a pain des amis loaf here to carry to the canal for lunch.
Eat your bakery haul on the canal steps near Quai de Valmy, locals do exactly this on a mild afternoon.
Skip the full museum, head straight for the Denon wing to see the Mona Lisa, Winged Victory, and the Italian galleries.
Climb to the basilica's steps just before sunset, the view over the rooftops turns amber, and the crowds thin after the day-trippers leave.
A working-class 1896 dining hall still serving classic French bouillon fare at old-Paris prices, go for the confit de canard.
One of Paris's liveliest daily markets (closed Mondays), wander the fruit stalls and the flea-market corner for real neighborhood texture.
A no-frills wine bar right by the market, oysters and a glass of natural wine straight from the barrel, standing at the counter with locals.
Walk the elevated garden path built atop a disused railway viaduct, the world's first, and the model for New York's High Line.
End with a slow lap of the gardens, grab a green chair by the octagonal pond and watch Paris do its Sunday-afternoon thing, any day of the week.
A beloved classic Parisian bistro, steak-frites and a proper tarte Tatin for a fitting last dinner.
Du Pain et des Idées' escargot pistache-chocolat and a loaf of pain des amis, eaten on the canal steps the way the 10th arrondissement does lunch.
A no-frills wine bar where the glasses are filled from casks and the oysters are shucked by the market door.
Confit de canard under an 1896 glass ceiling at prices that feel like a typo. The queue is part of the ritual.
The one classic this plan grazes past: a sit-down cheese course or a guided fromagerie stop. Ask Robin to add one near your hotel and it will.
No. Everything runs on the metro and your feet, and day 2 is explicitly a metro day. A car in Paris buys you nothing but parking grief.
The Eiffel Tower's timed ascent and dinner at Bistrot Paul Bert both reward booking a few days out, and Sainte-Chapelle now runs timed entry in high season. The markets, bakeries and Le Baron Rouge just need you to show up hungry.
The Marché d'Aligre runs every day except Monday, mornings best; the Enfants Rouges also rests Mondays. If your dates put a Monday on day 1 or 3, ask Robin to reshuffle the market days around it.
Enough for the classic center, done properly. What it leaves out is the new-bistro east: Belleville and Oberkampf's natural-wine rooms are a fourth day, and worth it.
Yes: that page carries the sights at full depth, this one eats around them. If you have five days, run the first-visit plan and let these markets and bistros take over its meals.
Give the Eiffel Tower and the canal picnic one unhurried day, and the Louvre with Montmartre's golden hour another. The zigzag disappears and both halves breathe.
Belleville and Oberkampf, where the natural-wine bistros book out nightly. Ask Robin to reserve one and build the afternoon's walk toward it.
A fromagerie-and-chocolatier crawl through Saint-Germain, ending with a slow Luxembourg Gardens hour you have already learned to love.
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